The Place Cerulean Blue Was Made For

John Muir gave the world one of my favorite quotes: "The mountains are calling, and I must go."...and so we did. My mom bravely joined our adventure and we set out last Sunday into the panhandle of Texas with Santa Fe on my mind and judiciously plugged into my iPhone map. Last May Scott and I discovered the Marriott Courtyards in Downtown Amarillo , and we remarked this week about how much this hotel, a downtown refurbished bank building, has charmed us into loving Amarillo altogether. The rooms are almost as big as the views. A couple of times we've stayed on the top floor (10) and it's pretty glorious to watch the sun rise from up there. There are two restaurants across from the hotel: Acapulco's and a wine bar. We've ended up at the Crush Wine Bar both times--the beers are very interesting and the food is great. I'm a fan of the hummus and the mushroom empanada. There is great live music on the weekends...and it's quite the scene. Yes, in downtown Amarillo. The next morning my mom and I set out with the two darlings. 


We drove up to Santa Fe through Clines Corners and spent the afternoon introducing the boys to the Square, Doodlets, Haagen Daas ice cream, a trip to Monsignor Patrick Smith Park on Alameda and dinner at a favorite: Cowgirls. The green chile fries are in my top five Santa Fe dishes. I found a great rate for the Hotel St. Francis on Don Gaspar. The renovation is beautiful and reminiscent of a church in old Mexico.  We retired early and watched Hugo much to my mother's delight. It really is a magical film. 


The next day we ventured out early to pick up bagels at the New York Deli on the "upper east side" (green chile are the best) and climbed the mountain to the ski basin (in our warm car). It was busy with arriving skiers but for us it was an adventure--we don't ski (yet) and it was just fun to let the boys romp around in the snow and take in the glorious views. We took our time going down and stopped a few times for a snowball fight. It doesn't take much to entertain these guys. We stopped at the bottom of the mountain to enjoy the park at the Fort Marcy Recreation complex (fun) and soak in the sun. Lunch was our best meal of the trip: Maria's on West Cordova. The green chile rellenos are life-changing. Are you noticing a trend? The margarita was pretty wonderful, too.  With a four and a five year-old, who did not have the pleasure of a margarita or our need for a nap, we had to keep going. We ventured on to the Santa Fe Children's Museum. It had been a long time since I'd been there, but I loved every minute of the museum's real, honest, community-spun fun. It is a great place full of love and light--just like the city it lives in. We spent most of our time out in the garden in the "tire pit" making friends and drinking desert air. We managed a short siesta at the hotel and then ventured back to the Square. Mom ordered food in from the Atomic cafe (yummy & easy) and I met a dear friend for a glass of wine in the hotel bar. All wonderfully relaxed and pleasant. 


Day three brought us to a bountiful breakfast at another favorite: Pasqual's. We sat in my favorite place: the community table. Trouble 1 and Trouble 2 were a bit challenging this particular morning, but the staff was great and the food was--as always--delicious. Mom and I decided we weren't adventurous enough (eggs, bacon, french toast, etc) as we watched our new friends at the table enjoy their huevos rancheros (Christmas) and huveos motelunos. We also learned a lesson for next time from our savvy traveling companions at the table: split plates. The servings are generous...and even a split is more than enough for two. All that said, the "American" breakfast was still wonderful and just being in Pasqual's with it's folk-art ambiance and jolly eaters is experience enough. 


We walked over to a favorite stop in Santa Fe: Rainbow Gate Pottery. I strategically sat T1 & T2 in a bench in the corner and Mom and I explored the beautiful tablescapes. We lasted about ten minutes before the boys' meter ran out--and it was great. The staff let us walk them back into the studio where the artists are painting the ceramics--such a treat. I told the ladies they have my #2 dream job. (I'm presently in #1). Over lunch my mom played with the boys in the new Railyard. The playscape is "awesome" and I snuck off to have lunch with a couple of true blue friends from Brush Ranch at Vinagrette: 100% yum. My beet/goat cheese/pistachio salad won't soon be forgotten and hopefully not before I can get there again. I rejoined my mom--who was looking a little sun-kissed, and we set out for the Pecos Canyon. On the way we picked up a picnic at the Flying Star Cafe. We'll go back there too--it was all easy and delicious, and the casual-cafe/coffee house setting reminds me of the vibe at the old Borders. Great for kids, too. 


We spent the afternoon time-traveling at the Pecos National Monument. This treasure of a field-trip was a place I fell in love with during my cherished days as a counselor at Brush Ranch Camps. I used to "get" to take the kids there during the summer terms. How lucky I was! There is a 1.25 mile hike with an accompanying visitors guide that takes you back to a thriving community of 2,000 Pueblo Indians in the 15th century. The boys loved it--a perfect primer for Bandelier on a return trip. It's a quiet place with piñon winds, and peaceful views. I also recommend watching the orientation video in the visitors' center before you hike. Greer Garson, the donor of the property to the state, narrates the piece, and it's a great "set-up" for the experience. We topped off the "Afternoon of Joy" on the Pecos River with a drive up the canyon of my college summers. I got a little misty as the boys dipped their toes in the frigid water thinking about how I was always eager to get to lead "river wading" on the hot July afternoons at camp. The camp has since closed, but I'm thinking about leading a little river wading of my own this summer. Maybe you can sign-up, too! 


We found it hard to top an "Afternoon of Joy" and ended up in the queue of walking from restaurant to restaurant only to learn of a long wait (the down-side of being spontaneous...and tired). However, we persevered and hit the jackpot at the La Fiesta Lounge at the La Fonda Hotel . Our table was waiting for us, and the Bill Hearne Trio had us all tapping our toes. It was perfect Santa Fe ambiance: happy cowboys and cowgirls from New Mexico, Texas and beyond dancing the night away just like they have for the last fifty years. Mom and I split (note the split) green chile enchiladas and the boys had a burger. The staff loved the kids...again: easy and fun. Next time I'll get them to dance with me...or I'll make sure Scott is there. We counted the stars on the way home, and fell into our pillows. 


On our last morning we reluctantly packed up our bags and bid farewell to the peaceful St. Francis. Tecolote cheered us up: another camp favorite. I finally went for it: Christmas huevos rancheros and it was so worth it. Great kids' place and Baker's "owl art" is forever immortalized (or at least until next week). Our last Santa Fe adventure was at the Museum of International Folk Art. The boys explored every curiosity and Mom and I reminisced of visits past. The Andean textile exhibition was exquisite and I'd give the museum an A for educational pursuits. It's one of my favorite in the country, and maybe the place I fell in love with miniatures. I left with a plan to make my own adobe miniature. I'll let you know how it goes. 


So...the bad news is we had to leave. The good news is Santa Fe waits for all. I'm so happy it's a community where the restaurants seem to have remarkable sustainability. Their address may have changed, but the food is just so consistently good. I'm not sure Dallas can boast the same longevity. But we're rumored to be fickle consumers...always on to the next best thing. Not so with Santa Fe...I'll enjoy the same green chile-soaked sopapilla under a bright blue New Mexico sky at Maria's every time. 






PS: Other favorites: Senor Murphy's candy store in La Fonda, Don Lucas Jewelry at Ortega's and Sage Bake House.